Monday, December 19, 2005

School’s Out for Summer

Yes! It’s holiday time. We finished up in school on Thursday. It was a really good night, but mixed with sadness as we said goodbye to several of our colleagues.

The Orphanage
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One of the traditions in Intercultura is that the teachers and staff buy presents for orphans in Costa Rica each Christmas. This year my orphan was a 12 year old boy called Jesser, and I bought him the official world cup football of the Costa Rican football team.

I chose not to go out to the orphanage the day they were delivering, because I thought I might get too sad. But talking to the other teachers it made me realise what a good idea it is. The kids were all lined up at the railings waiting for the bus and presents to arrive. They were absolutely thrilled with their presents and played for the morning with the teachers who went along. It’s something that reminds us what Christmas is really about.

Preparing for Christmas
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For me, Christmas in the sun really doesn’t really seem right. I was in Australia for Christmas a number of years ago, and although I loved the trip it didn’t seem like Christmas. Now, I go out and see all the Christmas lights and decorations, with the blue, blue skies and the sunshine and it all just seems like a joke.

I’m heading off to Manuel Antonio on the Pacific coast tomorrow, to have a few days at the beach before Christmas. It will be quite a bit hotter on the coast. Here we have lovely warm days, but nice cool evenings at the moment.

Christmas Eve is the bigger day here, rather than Christmas day. It’s when the families have their big meal, and I guess Christmas day is more like our Stephen’s day. I’m going to my friend Laura’s for Christmas, along with the few teachers who haven’t gone home. I was also invited by my landlord to spend the day with his family if I didn’t have other plans. Which I thought was a really lovely and generous gesture.

The supermarket experience
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It’s interesting to remember the differences between the supermarkets over here and at home. First of all when you go in you have to leave any bags or other shopping in a cloakroom area, and receive a cloakroom ticket. The supermarkets are well stocked, and as everywhere here, they have plenty of staff. But I laughed during the week to see that there was a girl doing women’s nails, right in the middle of the aisles. You could sit down and have your nails manicured and have little flowers painted on them between the household utensils and Christmas decorations, as the rest of the shoppers strive to get their trolleys around you.

Christmas week
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As soon as Christmas is over, everyone heads for the beach, and only come back around New Year. It’s the busiest time of the year for hotels and hostels, along with Easter week. Rita arrives just after Christmas, but we’re going to stay in Heredia and visit the local sites before heading off just after New Year to avoid the rush, and the higher prices.

Weekly email – Now available in Podcast!
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Well, you can’t accuse me of being behind the times. Now, as well as receiving the weekly email by email, or as a weblog on the web, you can now also receive it by podcast if you so wish! Basically I’m going to record it as a file, and you can download it to your iPod or podcast software from www.angelfire.com/journal2/eamon/weeklypodcast.rss . So you can get to hear the weekly mail in my very own dulcet tones! I warn you it’s a very amateurish production at the moment, but hopefully I’ll get better as time goes on.
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Well, that’s it for another week. I’m off to Manuel Antonio tomorrow to relax on the beach before hitting Christmas. I hope you all have a really good holiday. The world may stop for the Christmas, but rest assured, the weekly emails (and podcasts!) will continue regardless.

So until next week,

Feliz Navidad,

Éamon

Today’s headline in La Nación: Lawyers falsify marriages with foreigners.

Wednesday, December 14, 2005

Secret Santa

Running a bit late this week. It was quite a busy weekend, and I just never got round to writing. Then we went out after work last night to mark the beginning of our last week. As you do.

A bit a culture
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A group of us went to the ballet on Friday. It was in the Teatro Nacional. This building is in all the guide books as the architectural gem of San José. From outside, it doesn’t really look all that much, so I didn’t really understand. But inside, it’s really beautiful. It’s very European in styling and looks like an old theatre from Vienna or somewhere. The ballet was ‘The Nutcracker Suite’, and it was great to have a bit of culture after all this time away!

On the way up to the theatre (there were about 13 of us going) we were showered with confetti on Avenida Central. Apparently it’s a local custom for December. The street looked like it was covered in snow, because all the confetti was white. People were covered with it. As I passed I heard one kid say ‘There’s no point throwing it at him, he has no hair’.

Christmas party
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Saturday was the Intercultura Christmas party. It was our last Saturday of the semester, and the bus picked us up outside the school at 4pm. The party was on a kind of a farm, with swimming pools and a large function hall. There was free drink and food all night. The ‘dance floor’ was out on the grass under the moonlight, with smoke machines and disco lights. It was a really excellent night. And my God the Latinas can dance. The Spanish teachers were up on the dance floor as soon as the music started, and I don’t think some of them stopped all night.

We had a Secret Santa running in work all week. It’s like a Kris Kindle, but you buy little presents for your person all week, and then a proper gift for them that you present to them at the party. I got a bottle of Champagne from my friend Anna to have on Jack’s return.

After the party some of us popped into a couple of the Heredia bars to round off the night!

Los Colombianos
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The biggest group of immigrants in Costa Rica are the Nicaraguans. The next biggest group are Colombians, and I have a real affection for them. Marcella who we met very early on is Colombian, as is Paula my Spanish teacher. I’ve had several students that I’ve really warmed to, only to realise after a time that they’re also from Colombia. We were out on Thursday, and I met Nixon, the Colombian barman from our local much-loved bar, El Cholo, and two of his friends, a Colombia three, if you will. When we moved to another bar they introduced me to another friend he asked where I was from. When I told him, he said ‘Oh, Irish! You are my friend. You help us train the FARC. Thank you, we need someone to help us against the Americans!’

End of term
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While I’m delighted it’s end of term and to have the break, there are a number of teachers that are leaving that I’m really going to miss. It’s part of the life of an English teacher abroad that the turnover is quite high, and people are constantly moving on. There are 4 of the American girls leaving, along with Tom from London. While it was similar last semester, I had only just started and didn’t really know anyone that well. This time all five are people I really get on with and I’m really going to miss.

Costa Rica in the news
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This week Costa Rica hit world headlines twice, which is more than they have in all the time I’ve been here. First they were drawn against Germany and will play in the opening match of the World Cup. This has generated enormous excitement.

The second, sadder, story was that the guy who was shot on the plane in Miami, after allegedly claiming to have a bomb was Tico. Although he had American citizenship and had lived there for many years, he’s from Costa Rica and his parents still live here.
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Well, that’s it for another week. I’ve another two days of work, and it’s holiday time, so I’m really dying for the break.

So until next week,

Pura Vida,

Éamon

Saturday’s headline in La Nación: We open the World Cup

Monday, December 05, 2005

O’Connor’s Pub

The weather has been so beautiful recently, and it’s so refreshing after the months of rain. It’s very warm during the day, and very comfortable and cool at night. I never think that I’m a sun person. But the beautiful and warm weather has us all in great form. However, it seems very un-December!

Parque Central
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I’m starting writing this mail on Saturday morning. I’ve taken my class to Parque Central and now they’re filling in a questionnaire on the things they see in the park. So I have time to have a look at it myself.

The Parque is quite big, it’s a fully city block. There is the old Church to the east. The sky is completely blue, I can’t see a cloud. There is a large fountain in the centre, but it’s empty, and kids are playing in it. There is a clown entertaining them. There are a group of kids singing carols in the bandstand. The square has many tall palm trees on the side near the post office.

The square now has a lot of stall selling clothes, jewellery and indigenous artisan crafts for Christmas. There is a funpark, called Ciudad Mágica in one corner. It has a beautiful old carousel and a few scary rides. The sort you see in Funderland which turn people fully upside-down up in the air. It’s full of people really enjoying themselves.
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Back at home – Sunday (with a red sunburnt head from yesterday!)
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Head Teacher
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My boss Barbara asked me to have a talk earlier in the week. It turned out that she wanted to ask me to be Head Teacher next semester. Head Teacher is not like headmaster, but it is a role of senior teacher I suppose. Teaching has only been the means to an end for me. It’s a portable skill that I learned expressly for the purpose of travel. But, that said, I have to say that I felt really chuffed when I was asked. She said that she felt I had a presence on the staff, as well as the respect of the other teachers. I can’t believe that having taught in the school only since May, and only having trained earlier this year, that I’m going to be Head Teacher next semester. It’s really made me realise that I’ve achieved so much this year.

How the other half live
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I was out on Friday with a few of the teachers. Leah’s Tica roommate Alba invited me to a party today Sunday in her American boyfriend’s house. So we headed out to the exclusive suburb of Escazú today. The house is beautiful. It’s in the foothills of the mountains, and we were having a barbecue by the pool. The mountains are really high, we were at about 5,000m and they towered over us. It was quite beautiful.

We were on the patio beside the guest house, at the bottom of the garden. With a sunken hot-tub inside. The guests were a mix of the host, Brad’s, friends, with a very high proportion of older American men with young Tica girlfriends or wives.

On the way home we drove through Santa Ana, and I saw the only Irish bar that I think is here. I’d read about it on the internet, but when I asked people said they didn’t know it, and I thought it was gone. But I saw the sign ‘O’Connor’s Irish Pub’. So we stopped for a drink. It was all very disappointing. There were no road-signs or photos , or anything from Ireland. There was just one Tricolour and two small framed old Guinness ads. The rest was all Heineken branded, with NOTHING Irish available. Not even Irish whiskey!

And when I went to the loo I arrived into Joe’s Mexican bar next door!

I’m off now to have a good rest. This is my last busy week before Christmas. There are no Spanish classes next week, so it will just be teaching.

So until next week,

Pura Vida,

Éamon

Today’s headline in La Nación: Second round seems unlikely [in the presidential election]

Sunday, November 27, 2005

Here comes the summer

Summer arrived on Monday! It was quite sudden. I was taking Spanish classes this week, so it was off to the school early, and I got sunburnt between walking down and during our morning break. The mornings have been beautiful and summery all week. We still have the odd shower of rain, but there is definitely a feeling that summer is here, and I’ve been back in shorts and flip-flops.

Thanksgiving
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Thursday was thanksgiving in the US, and so was a big celebration in the school. There was a thanksgiving party, so I had my first thanksgiving dinner. On the menu was turkey, mashed potatoes, mashed squash, green beans, cranberry sauce and stuffing. I was the turkey carver. It was a huge turkey that fed the entire school!

Actually, it was interesting, because it didn’t really feel like a celebration for the Gringos at all. Most people were a little down because of it. I didn’t realise that it was such a big holiday in the US, and also, because it’s such a family time, people were quite homesick. I felt that on Thursday night, a lot of them were on a bit of a downer.

Teacher of the week
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I was teacher of the week this week. That sounds like an achievement, but it’s just a rota – we all take it in turns. Teacher of the week means that you have to stay behind and tidy up the staffroom each night, and on Saturday. And you chair the Wednesday weekly meeting. It was my first time chairing a meeting since last December. It was strange because it was something I did so often in Irish Life. I hadn’t realised I was teacher of the week until I arrived in on Monday and saw written on the board – Teacher of the week – Eamon ‘The Irishman’.

Intercultura news
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This was followed by the publication of the school magazine ‘Intercultura News’ which is written by the students and published monthly. The following article appeared.

New Teacher Interview – With Eamon ‘The Irishman’ McDonagh.

The following questions were answered by Eamon’s students on behalf of their beloved teacher:

· What’s his favorite holiday or time of year?
St. Patrick’s Day.

· Describe his ideal partner:
Someone who is friendly, funny and interesting.

· Describe his most embarrassing moment:
The day he gave us a class from Unit 9, but we were on Unit 7. Or, the time he got drunk in Puerto Viejo and tried to dance Celtic style, much to the bewilderment of the reggae enthusiasts on hand.

· What’s his most annoying characteristic?
He speaks too fast

· Does he have any hidden talents?
He always looks happy.

It’s pretty good hidden talent if you ask me!

The best restaurant so far
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I went to a Lebanese restaurant in San José last night with my friends Laura and Leah. It was a fabulous meal. The best since I’ve been here. I had a large main course and three beers in a very upmarket restaurant (there was a picture on the wall of Mikhail Gorbachev on his visit here) for only c7,000, or €9.44.

Today, my landlord had another barbecue, so we had a nice afternoon. It turns out his father was Lebanese, so he’s invited us all back in two weeks when he wants to cook some Lebanese food for us.
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My internet connection is down at the moment, because the government agency, RACSA were billing me to my RACSA email address which I don’t use. So I caught up on my payments the other day and am awaiting reconnection. I’m sending this from an internet café. I hope to be back online tomorrow.

So until next week,

Pura Vida,

Éamon

Today’s headline in La Nación: Aresep raises fares on faulty buses

Sunday, November 20, 2005

Irish Evening

Folks,

Although we still had some rain this week, it’s definitely getting less. Today was actually quite warm, with the temperature was about 25˚c this afternoon.

Irish evening
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One group of my students were saying a couple of weeks ago that they’d love to know some more about Ireland. So we had an ‘Irish evening’ during class on Tuesday. I started off with a brainstorm on information they already knew about Ireland. It didn’t take long, because they knew nothing! They literally hadn’t a clue. They vaguely knew it was in Europe. They were amazed to find out that it was an island. They knew we liked potatoes and Guinness, but that was only from me in previous classes.

For the evening I wore my green FCEK – The Irish Correction t-shirt. I had a reading exercise around an article about Ireland. We had two music activities on songs, Nothing Compares 2U by Sinéad O’Connor and Sunday, Bloody Sunday by U2. I also had a clip of Riverdance to show them the dancing. The whole class went very well, and they really enjoyed it.

The Intercultura Cup
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The soccer competition is up and running in the school. The Intercultura Cup. It’s open to teachers, students and their friends. Chris, the head teacher, arrived to my classroom with a few students earlier in the week and said they had something to ask me. They asked if I’d like to be on their soccer team for the competition. I politely declined. Afterwards, Chris said that he was sure I’d told him before that I’d like to play. I know most of you will find the thoughts of me playing in a soccer competition as funny as I do. I told him that no matter how drunk I would never have said I’d like to be on a team.

Anyway, we headed out to the competition on Friday. Because of the number of teachers, they’ve now got two teams. The Meltdown’s are the original team, but they’ve now got an offshoot, the Goosecocks. They designed a logo and got t-shirts printed for the three-week competition, only to crash out spectacularly on the first night.

Irishisms
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People are always having a laugh at my Irishisms. ‘I’m grand’, when asked how I am, is mimicked by many of the staff. Monique thought I was talking literally when I said that the sun was splitting the stones for my sister’s wedding. Joaquín’s phrase of the moment is ‘Jaysus!’

I lapse into Irishisms when teaching much to the confusion of my students. We were having a race in a game around telling the time yesterday, when I called out ‘Five past six’ as one of the clues, only to have the game stop as they looked at me blankly. It’s ‘Five after six’ in the book. I’ve confused students talking about footpaths instead of sidewalks. Laundrettes instead of Laundromats. Forming a queue instead of making a line. Opposite the bar instead of across from the bar. Beside the supermarket instead of next to the supermarket. And bizarrely, diagonally opposite instead of something called ‘kitty corners’!

I said to one returning teacher that I hadn’t seen her since we ‘broke up’, meaning since school broke up for the holidays. The others though I was implying we’d had an affair.

The school is delighted to have another accent to the teaching staff. When I arrived there were 5 Canadians and 3 British teachers. Now many have left and all the replacements have been from the US, so the staff is all American except for 3 Canadians, Tom from UK, and myself. And Tom is leaving next month!

Well, that’s it for another week, folks. I’m now off to prepare for a marathon 20 hours set of private classes this week with a new French student.

Today’s headline from La Nación: Mudslide destroys 27 houses in Aserrí

Monday, November 14, 2005

Cantina Mulo

I guess I overestimated the change in the weather. I had hoped to go to the coast this weekend. But the weather forecast was terrible. The hourly forecast as hilarious, listing rain, rain, rain hour after hour, interrupted by the odd thunderstorm. So I stayed put in Heredia.

France 0 Costa Rica 2
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OK, so that’s only the half-time score. Costa Rica played our group toppers, France in a friendly during the week. We had the TV on watching it during our weekly meeting. However, France came back in the second half to win 3-2.

Cantina Mulo
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Those of you of a certain vintage from Irish Life will remember Blacks. The pub on Talbot St that was always a bit of a dive, but was well-loved by many of us who frequented it for many years. I remember one work colleague telling me that he used see Jim, the proprietor, more often than his own father. And he lived at home.

Well the good news is that Cantina Mulo is the Blacks of Costa Rica. It’s directly opposite the school. It’s a very typical old Tico Cantina, which is a type of spit-on-the-floor bar that serves drink and food. ‘Jim’ over here is called Jorge. We’ve had many a good Thursday that starts off there. Barbara my boss usually ends up behind the bar serving drink. I was going to say pulling pints, but alas there are no pints, and only one beer is ever on draft, Imperial. So it’s usually bottles. With the odd shot of ‘Guaro’ (the local drink made from sugar cane) to round off the night.

One very curious, but typically Tico, fact is that there is a Gents urinal just in the corner of the front bar. But it’s basically right in the bar. It’s a tiny cubicle, and you’re just screened by ‘saloon type’ doors. It’s the sounds that are most disconcerting when you’re sitting there drinking your beer however.

The other bars
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After Mulo, it’s usually on to Bulevar. Which is a big American style bar, open to the front, and with two floors, and a back bar with live music. It’s very gringo, meaning that a lot of Americans, usually students, go there.

An alternative is El Chozo, which has several floors, and a stunning view from the top bar, looking out over Heredia, San José and the Central Valley.

After everything else is shut, if the night continues, it’s on to Miraflores Disco Bar. To which all the late-nighters of Heredia beat a trail. This is where Jack and I came on our first night in Heredia, when he sang Downtown on the Karaoke. In all the times I’ve been there, I haven’t sung Karaoke. Well, maybe I’ve sung along. But I’ve never taken the mike!

El Cholo
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Still my favourite bar by a long shot (not of Guaro!) is El Cholo. The gay, but very straight-friendly, bar down the road. It rarely forms part of the trail on a Thursday, although many teachers love it. It’s quite Spanish, rather than Tico. It serves tapas rather than bocas. The owner is from Barcelona, and it has a picture of the Nou Camp and lots of Barca memorabilia.

I’ve got a lot of feedback on the weekly emails in the early days that all we talked about was bars and beer. So I haven’t mentioned it for a while, and I actually have been living a quieter life, believe it or not. I guess I’ve blown all that now.

Monday, November 07, 2005

After the rain

The weather has taken a turn for the better, with much less rain this week. Sometimes I’m inclined to forget where I’m living at this stage, and I start to take things for granted. But this evening when I went down to the supermarket in the lovely clear evening sunlight it was beautiful to see the mountains to the North, South and East. The city of Heredia isn’t very beautiful, but the location is.

Ceviche
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After class the other night, one of the students popped back and said that he and his wife were going into the neighbouring city of Alajuela to have some ceviche. Ceviche (pronounced seVEEchay) is dish of raw fish, marinated in spices. So I headed out with them to Alajuela. An opportunity to practice my Spanish if nothing else.

We arrived at the cevichería in Alajuela, which turned out to be just a counter on the street. Ceviche is served in a tall glass, looking a bit, I guess, like a sundae. I have to say that although a ‘drink of fish’ doesn’t really sound very nice, it was actually delicious.

Still no travel
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You may remember that I had intended to travel away a couple of the weekends while I’m not working Saturday. I guess with all the rain it just seemed much more comfortable to stay in the apartment and socialise locally.

I’ve only one weekend before working the four remaining Saturdays before the Christmas break. So I’m hoping to head away, probably to the Pacific coast, next weekend. Several of my friends are going to Nicaragua on a border run. Unfortunately I join them because I’m out of visa compliance.

Long Christmas break
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The Christmas break is quite long this year. We break up on December 15th, and classes don’t start again in January until 23rd. We can stock up on private classes in that time if we want, but I think I’d like to just have the time off. In addition, my mother is coming on holidays for a few weeks from December 27th, so it will be ideal to have the time off for travel.

Shortly after she goes back, Jack’s planning his return to Costa Rica, sometime around the beginning of February. It will be five months since he left, and he’ll be returning in the beautiful summer months.

New neighbours
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Two older American guys have moved into the apartment next door. There had been a young Canadian girl. So I’ve now got Americans on all sides. Carlos, the landlord, threw a barbecue for the tenants (there’s only 4 of us) yesterday to welcome the new arrivals. They seem like guys who have come down here to retire. There are a lot of Americans who come down here to retire, because it’s much cheaper to live than in the US. I had wondered first off if they were a couple, but there have been quite a number of female visitors coming in and out in the meantime so I’ve discounted that theory. And they’ve only been here since Tuesday.

Monday, October 31, 2005

Feliz Halloween

Folks,

We celebrated Halloween a little early in school. We had the party on Thursday, the end of the week, rather than tomorrow, the beginning of the week.

May the force be with you
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All teachers (and some of the students) dressed up for the Halloween on Thursday. This meant that students were taught by Cleopatra, a skeleton, a bunch of grapes, a mummy, a fairy, a Canadian ice-hockey player, Mr. T, a bumble bee, a pirate, a Martian and Rambo, to mention just some.

I went as Darth Maul, from Star Wars I: The Phantom Menace. I had a black sheet with a hole for my head and fastened with a belt, and red and black make-up all over my head. It was a good laugh. I’ll put some pictures up on the site.

The Ticos are a bit wary of Halloween. The Catholic Church attempted to stop it as a festival many years ago because it was perceived as ‘satanic’.

Julie won the competition as a bunch of grapes, covered in purple balloons with a purple tinsel wig and a green ‘stalk’ cap.

We went out afterwards to celebrate. When travelling around the town I was whistled at, stared at, and had truck drivers honking their horns at me! My make-up lasted from 4pm right through classes, the party, the bars and until I came home at around 2.30am. It looked as good as it did at the start.

Out with the Spanish teachers
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There is a divide between the Spanish teachers and the English teachers in the school. Although we share the same staff room, they teach mainly in the morning, and we’re mainly in the evening. When the teams overlap in the staff room, there is a little interaction, but not much. I think it’s really because they’re permanent people, working teaching Spanish as their career. Whereas we’re perceived as gringos on holidays having a laugh.

A notice went up on the board saying that there was a fancy-dress party on Saturday night in a bar run by the brother of Fanny (the accountant in the school). So Julie and I decided we’d go and do our bit for entente cordiale between the two teams. It was a good night, although the bar (in the neighbouring city of Alajuela) wasn’t up to much. We ended up coming back to Heredia and having a few drinks locally. But it was nice to get to know a few of the Spanish teachers, and to speak a few words in Spanish.

Halloween is from the Irish
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I made a rather interesting discovery as I researched Halloween for an article in the Intercultura news, in that Halloween is originally an Irish festival. That it went to the United States with Irish immigrants. And that the carved pumpkins with candles were originally turnips!

Another week, another hurricane
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There have been so many tropical storms and hurricanes this year that it’s set a new record. Twenty three named storms, including 13 hurricanes. And the season has another month to run. They have run out of names – Wilma was the last name on the list. Now we’ve moved onto the Greek alphabet. Alpha hit Cuba last week, and Beta hit Nicaragua this morning. It’s very unusual for a hurricane to be so close to Costa Rica. But we’ve actually had no rain in the last two days, the only two days in October with none. And although the hurricane is dumping tons of rain further up the coast, today was quite nice and far better than for other hurricanes much further away.
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OK, that’s it for another week. I’m back to Spanish classes in the morning. Those of you in Ireland enjoy your bank holiday tomorrow. Until next week.

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

Taxing times

Sorry I’m a bit late. I’m running a little behind on things these days.

Into the tax system
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The tax year runs from 1 October to 30 September. So I had to register with the tax authorities. This seemed a bit risky, given that I don’t have a visa. However, I headed off to the ‘tributación’, which is the tax office with the Ministerio de Hacienda.

She asked when it was to date from, so I said I guessed May 1st when I started with the school. She said that there would be a fine for not having done it at the time, so she suggested that I say I started today, and avoid the fine. Fair enough! And she didn’t even ask for a visa.

There followed 15 minutes of stamping forms, and printing off multiple copies of a letter telling me my tax number. She wrote the number in their register of numbers, which was a Spongebob Squarepants jotter. I was then given a little folder with 26 leaflets on various aspects of the tax system. Twenty-six leaflets! Registration of contributors1, 2 and 3, tax on rental income, guide to retentions at source, required receipts, tax system online, etc.

The first C1,629,000 is 0%, then up to C2,433,000 at 10%, C4,058,000 at 15%, C8,132,00 at 20% and anything over at 25%. But you can use receipts for your rent, your water and electricity bills, and your mobile phone if you’re lucky enough to have one, as allowable expenses. Bar and restaurant receipts are also allowable expenses! Not covered though are cable bills, landline phones or supermarket receipts.

Anyway, because I didn’t start working until May, I will be under the tax threshold for this tax year, so I just have to keep my expense receipts for the tax year 2006.

The Tico washing machine
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In the division of labour while Jack was still here, he got custody of the washing machine. Now I have the unhappy task of struggling with the Tico ‘semi-automatic’ washing machine. To call it a washing machine really is a misnomer. It’s more like a motorised sink. You fairly much have to do everything yourself. The make is called Mabe, which I assume is a play on words meaning that ‘maybe’ your wash will be done, or ‘maybe’ your clothes will just get covered in a coating of fluff.

It’s top loading, and there are two sections; one for washing and one for spinning. You put the clothes in, and because there is a problem with the connecting hose I have to fill it with water from a bucket on several trips from the sink. Then you turn it on. ‘On’ means that a turntable moves your clothes clockwise and anti-clockwise for 15 minutes. You repeat this a couple of times, then flick a switch to empty the water. Then you transfer the clothes into the spinner. You need to readjust the load about three times because the spinner knocks off the sides until it’s balanced. You repeat this procedure, moving the clothes over and back, until your wash is rinsed. It’s such a chore!

And I know there is always a laugh about where your socks go when you are just left with odd ones. I know exactly where mine go. They are down in the drum beside the spinner. I can see them, but I can’t get them out.

Wilma!
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Another very rainy week, because of Hurricane Wilma. Although we’re not in the hurricane zone, we definitely get very heavy rain each time one of them hits the coast up north. It also brought down the English Horizons website yesterday, because the servers are in Boca Raton in Florida, and they were put out of action in the storm. So I wasn’t able to give my class.
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OK, that’s it for another week. I have to decide now on a costume for Thursday, as it’s the custom for all the teachers to dress up for Halloween.

Monday, October 17, 2005

Día de la Cultura

The time is fairly zipping along now. I found September difficult as I got used to being on my own. But you get a new routine, and other people become used to the fact that you’re now more available and so remember to invite you along to things, and little by little your social life is on the up again. Also, I’m now finished my five week Saturday rotation. I don’t know where that went! I don’t think I’m back on until the end of November, and then there are only three Saturdays until the Christmas break.

Not to be
------------
I dashed home from Spanish class on Wednesday just in time for the kick-off of the Irish match, which was 12.45 lunchtime over here. I hoped that I’d pick it up on one of the cable channels. Alas no. I could get England / Poland, Italy / Moldova, Netherlands / Macedonia, and France / Cyprus, but no Ireland / Switzerland.

I had to settle for something called ‘Matchcast’ on the FIFA website. I had all the information at my fingertips. I had the weather in Lansdowne Road, and the temperature, as well as the history of previous encounters, updates on other matches, match trivia and a fan poll. I was promised live commentary in 4 languages, which seemed a bit excessive, but alas the only sound I had was the whistle at kick-off and at the end of the match. I had a minute by minute update in text though. So I knew what was happening.

37’ Ireland pile on the pressure and R Cabinas (SUI) saves his side with a crucial clearing header from a K Kilbane (IRL) cross.
39’ Ireland keep flooding forwards down both flanks, but lack the guile to match their endeavour.

I watched the France / Cyprus match on cable at the same time, and from time to time I’d get a little glimpse of Lansdowne on a little TV in the French dugout.

I was really sorry that they didn’t get through, but I’d felt we were fighting an uphill battle since losing the four points against Israel. So it’s ‘come on ye boys in Red and Blue’ for me next year.

Día de la Cultura
---------------------
Another week, another bank holiday. Or so it seems. Día de la Cultura is the anniversary of the October 12, 1492 discovery of the Americas by Christopher Columbus. It celebrates the joining together of the European and indigenous people of the Caribbean and Central America. With disastrous consequences for the latter.

The English department had a day off, but I was in the school in the morning in my role as Spanish student. All the classes had to make a presentation to the whole school on an aspect of indigenous culture. I presented on the artisan crafts of the Guaymies tribe, who live between here and Panama. Some unlucky students had to play tribal instruments.

Difficult student
--------------------
I got a surprise this week when a new student signed up for my English Horizons class on the internet. His name was Osama. But although he signed up, he never attended class. This was a relief really, as I had visions of him making an English video for Al Jazeera, and then all hell would break loose.

Well that’s it for another week. I’m off to sleep now. I’ve an easier week ahead because I’m not taking Spanish and don’t have Saturday classes.

Pura Vida,

Éamon

Tuesday, October 11, 2005

Olé, Olé

Apologies that this didn’t go out Sunday night. I was wrecked and had to be up early for another week of Spanish class. Well, there were big celebrations in Costa Rica on Saturday as they qualified for ‘Alemania 2006’. And the source of the really torrential rain was revealed as Hurricane Stan which has caused much devastation further up the coast.

Going through in style
---------------------------
Well, Costa Rica have made it through the qualifying rounds from Concacaf to the World Cup in Germany. They seemed to be in a far more precarious position than Ireland over the summer, but now they’ve come good, and there has been tremendous celebration.

It had looked very positive for qualification. They only needed one more point to be out of the reach of Guatemala. Even if they lost to the USA, Guatemala would need to have won in Mexico. Unlike any qualifying competition that I can ever remember where Ireland has been involved, they didn’t just scrape through. They ended up going through in style. The US, already qualified, fielded a rookie team, trying out new talent in the safety of a qualifying match that they didn’t need to win. That said, Costa Rica put in a very positive and spirited performance and won 3-0. To cap it all, Guatemala lost in Mexico – 5-2 was the final score.

Immediately afterwards the car horns were blaring. I went up to the bigger bar, Bulevar, and the streets were sealed off to traffic as hundreds took to the streets in their red Costa Rican jerseys singing Olé, Olé (even the songs are the same!). That’s a lot of people for Heredia. Apparently there were really big crowds in San José.

La Nación lead yesterday with a big broadsheet style cover which covered the front and back of its tabloid main section, saying ‘Selebremos’ (a play on words for team and let’s celebrate). Going on to say ‘After a long and tortuous road it’s over. The ‘tricolour’ is one of 24 teams who have already secured a place in Alemania 2006. The nation is smiling. Once again the sporting victory has made us forget the economic crisis in the country as the jubilation spread out from the stadium into the bars and restaurants’.

Here’s hoping that this is how things will be in Ireland on Wednesday, or after the playoffs.

Hurricane Stan
------------------
Hurricane Stan hit Central America on Tuesday, but it was far up the coast with Mexico and Guatemala taking the brunt. This was the cause of the torrential rain we’d had during the week. The latest figures I’ve seen suggest that 1,400 people could have been killed in mudslides in Guatemala. Costa Rica has been spared the worst of it. The rain is still torrential most days. October is the wettest month anyway. It’s really getting people down at this stage, and I heard many of the teachers talking today about how down they’re getting with the relentless downpours.

I have had a lot of internet connection problems over the last week, so I’m not sure if it’s related to the bad weather. To look out at the huge collection of wires clustered around poles in the street, often sparking and sizzling in the rain, it’s a wonder that cable and electricity make their way into the apartment at all.

I’d better head to bed now. It’s always a tiring week when I have the early starts for Spanish.

Pura Vida,

Éamon

Monday, October 03, 2005

It’s lashing

Although we had some good days this week, the rain continues. We have beautiful mornings most days, but then the rain comes with a vengeance. A state of emergency has been declared in some parts of the country because of flooding and landslides.

Technical problems with English Horizons
------------------------------------------
It is funny how sometimes the internet classroom mimics a regular classroom. Students hit the control button when they want to speak, which I can see. We call it ‘putting your hand up’. Sometimes students stay back to talk to me after the class is over. Students can arrive late, or ask permission to leave early. But on Monday, I had a frustrating hour with a technical problem that doesn’t have a real world equivalent that I can think of. I arrived to my class as usual (i.e. logged in). I looked at the register, 7 students had registered. Nearly a fully class. I waited for them to arrive. 2pm, no one there. 2.05 still no-one. Then I got an email from one student. We’re all outside trying to get in but we can’t. I went out and got back in no bother. I tried locking and unlocking the room. No problem. By 2.15 I still had no students, and 3 emails. I messaged the school administrator, but got no reply. I wasn’t sure if it was something I’d done incorrectly, which is why I was so frustrated. I had to wait the full length of the class in case anyone arrived. Anyway, in the heels of the hunt, it turns out that the time on one of the servers was incorrect. So when my students were trying to get in it checked the time, and thought that there was no class. I have been assured that this fault has now been rectified and won’t happen again!

Moo like a cow
---------------
I was back in Spanish classes this week. We were covering some fairly boring grammar. One part was learning the irregular verbs of the past tense. This would be similar to English where we say ‘went’ instead of ‘goed’, ‘took’ instead of ‘taked’ or ‘met’ instead of ‘meeted’. One exercise we had to do was to do a time line showing 4 significant years of our lives, saying whether they were excellent, good, average or bad. Some people revealed quite personal explanations. But Natalia the teacher saw it all as an opportunity for grammar correction. One student got quite upset while talking about her father’s near-fatal skiing accident (he still has paralysis in his legs). She said that he nearly died, incorrectly using morió as the word instead of murió. Tears were brimming in her eyes. Natalia’s eyes lit (not lighted!) up as she saw opportunity for grammar. With a big smile she asked, He nearly died (morió)? He nearly died??? No, the word is incorrect. It’s MURió, Mooo-rió. Mooo like a cow!

River dispute
--------------
The Rio San Juan runs along the border between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. Although the river is in Nicaragua, a treaty from 1858 gives Costa Rica navigation rights. However Nicaragua is now not agreeing to this and wants to stop armed Costa Rican border patrols and tourism from the Costa Rican side. The dispute has been in arbitration for three years, but there’s been no agreement. The President this week sent the case to the International Court of Justice in The Hague. It looks like it could yet get nasty, with Nicaragua now threatening to put a 35% tariff on Costa Rican products.

Anyway, thanks to anyone who has sent me emails. I’m way behind in my replies, but I’ll reply to them all, just bear with me. As I sign off, I can still hear the rain against the tin roof. I taught my students ‘it’s lashing’ this week to give them a little bit of Irishness.

Hasta luego,

Éamon

Monday, September 26, 2005

Rainy days

The rainy season intensifies. We had a couple of weeks with hardly any rain, so I guess I was getting a bit complacent. Well, it bucketed down torrentially this week. The mornings are still usually good. But in the afternoon, and now often through the night, we’re getting really heavy rain. I’ve taught my students to say ‘It’s lashing’.

Feliz Navidad
-----------------
It looks like Christmas comes early to Costa Rica. There are cars that drive around fairly regularly with megaphones advertising something or other, or to issue a health warning about Dengue Fever. But the other day I laughed when I heard the song ‘Feliz Navidad’ being broadcast, figuring he’d played the wrong tape. But no, I’ve heard it twice since. And then I went to the supermarket and they’re selling Christmas trees, baubles and Santa candles. Maybe because they don’t have Halloween there’s nothing to stop the lead-up coming earlier?

Living solo
--------------
I’m still adjusting to solo living. I have to say everyone at work has been great, and they’re all enquiring if I’m ok, and what am I doing for the weekend, which is nice. But it’s very different being here alone and being part of a couple. I think it’s still a transition time as I get used to things.

The Tico handshake
-------------------------
One of my students had to mention to me this week that my handshake isn’t as strong as it could be! It’s the custom for guys to crunch each other’s hands when they part. In several of my classes all the guys come up to me one by one to shake my hand. And it’s bone crushing stuff. It’s like the tighter the grip the more important you are. I usually wear a ring on my right hand and it’s very painful in mid-grip. I try to remember to switch it to the other hand when I’m coming towards the end of class. But sometimes I forget, and my lack of enthusiasm for the shake is not appreciated. Freddy, my student, warned me that he wouldn’t think less of me for having a weaker handshake, but that some Ticos would, and it’s something I should be aware of. So I have been warned.

Spanish
----------
I was all set for getting back to Spanish lessons this week. However, I completely forgot to set the alarm, so I ended up sleeping late and missing enrolment. So I had a relatively easy week. But I’m definitely going back to class in the morning.

Bulevar
----------
My friend Anna, a fellow teacher, rang me to say that they were going to Bulevar, the local American bar beside the University, for a few drinks and some food this evening. She was going with her boyfriend John, and her friend Leah. Leah has just started working in Intercultura also. We arrived in the middle of the Costa Rica-Mexico world cup qualifier, which we hadn’t realised was on. They lost 3-1, but in an Irishesque style the Ticos still managed to have a few drinks to celebrate. I think qualification is still looking likely. They play USA here on October 9th, and several teachers are trying to get a ticket for the match. Apart from that it was a fairly usual Costa Rican night, lots of reggaeton music, a few beers, two power cuts …

OK, that’s it for now. I’m off to bed. The nights are continuing to get cooler. 20 degrees last night. If this keeps up I might have to get a blanket.

Monday, September 19, 2005

Dia de la Independencia

Thursday was Independence Day. So it was a holiday, and I woke up to loud bands marching down the Avenida outside.

Dia de la Independencia
-----------------------------
Costa Rica achieved its independence fully 100 years before Ireland managed to. It declared independence from Spain on September 15, 1821. Since I came back two weeks ago I’ve notice the red, white and blue flags everywhere in the lead up. All the public areas of the school were bedecked with bunting. I work a check shirt on Wednesday to class, and was praised by my students for my patriotism, as it was red, white and blue! Class on Wednesday evening was disrupted by a very loud firework display outside. On Thursday morning, the marching began. I guess it sounds like Mexican music in old films, if you’re wondering what I woke up to. Unfortunately, I was a little hung-over, as one of the teachers was leaving (Andrew from Leicester) and we’d had a night out on Wednesday. When I got up and headed out, they were still marching around Parque Central and down towards the apartment on Avenida Central.

Quieter life
--------------
Wednesday night for Andrew’s booze-up was actually my only night out this week. (Readers who think I live in the bars please note!). It’s much quieter, obviously, without Jack being here. Our Colombian friend Marcella was organising a night in San José on Monday, but I was too wrecked after work to head all the way in. So I’ve been reading a lot, rented the odd DVD, and downloaded some missed episodes of Desperate Housewives. I even downloaded the new Ricky Gervais comedy Extras. So I’m feeling very up-to-date.

La Nación
-------------
I’m trying to read the local paper every so often. It’s called The Nation, and costs 67c. It’s seven days a week, and usually has a number of sections. A single issue lasts me ages. Irish news rarely features. The IRA decommissioning announcement got the front page. And the Irish tourist killed in Kusadasi was also covered. Today’s headline is Fire fighters warn about the bad management of gas. The big running stories are the TLC (known as CAFTA – The Central American Free Trade Agreement), and the up and running campaign for the presidency next year. Former president and Nobel peace prize winner Oscar Arias is the front-runner by a long way. His full-page ad in the paper today says The streets are full of potholes, the ports are inefficient, the airports can’t cope. Yes, I accept the challenge. Then his slogan: Yes! Costa Rica!

Saturday classes
--------------------
I’m back teaching on Saturdays. We work five Saturdays on, and five off. I have two beginners’ classes, and I enjoyed it. Classes run from 9am to 3.30pm. This rotation runs until 15 October. At that stage we’ll nearly be in the dry season, so I’m hoping to plan a few weekends away.

Tomorrow I’m back to my Spanish classes. It’s very tiring when you are taking 20 hours Spanish on top of teaching, but I’m determined that I’ll do it week on week off until Christmas. At that stage I’m hoping to be conversational.

Tomorrow the Dublin forecast is windy with rain and drizzle, with a high of 16 C. Heredia’s forecast is for scattered thunderstorms, and 25 C. Have a good week, and I’ll be in touch next weekend.

Sunday, September 11, 2005

Has it only been a week?

Has it just been a week since I came back? I can’t believe it, but that week has flown. I finally got the computer back up and running, but I’m afraid that I did lose all my data.

Germany here we come!
-----------------------------
Although there was bad news from the Ireland France match, things are a lot more positive here in Costa Rica. I may have a team to cheer for in Germany after all. Before the summer they had written off all chance of qualifying after some poor results. The Concacaf qualifiers are now in the final round, where the six teams left form a group, with the top three qualifying, and the fourth going into a play-off with an Asian team. Mexico and USA are well ahead, and Costa Rica, Guatemala and Trinidad & Tobago were close for the third place. On Saturday Costa Rica beat Panama 3-1 away, and then followed on Wednesday with a 2-0 victory at home over Trinidad & Tobago. So it now looks like they can’t be caught for the third spot. The final matches are against USA here and Guatemala away. The match coverage is hilarious. Companies sponsor various events in the game, so the screen has banners of running ads depending what happens on the field. For example, whenever there’s a corner, we get ads popping up for Bimbo Bread. For a goal, Coca-cola graphics fill the screen.

Computer blues
-------------------
I seem to have spent most of the week driving around San José and Heredia in busses and taxis with my laptop meeting various people in an attempt to rescue the data. It ended up in PC Doctor – a shop in a mall between Heredia and Alajuela. And that still required 10 taxi journeys before it was complete. It turns out that the hard drive was damaged. So I’ve lost all my data. This includes my journal since I arrived, my photos for the last three years, the entire music collection and more that I don’t even want to think about. I had to buy a new hard drive, although the old one is still under guarantee. I couldn’t delay anymore. I’ve cancelled two English Horizons classes, so I needed to be up and running for tomorrow. I’ll still follow up with Dell though. Gmail has been brilliant though. I had emailed lots of work files to myself, so I could print them off in the school. Because there’s loads of storage in Gmail and you don’t delete they’re all still there. I also have the photos that are on the website, and the weekly emails from the blog.

Troubleshooting at work
------------------------------
I’m back again in work. I was given a new class this week, because there was a clash between the students and the previous teacher. I now realise that I’m the ‘trouble-shooter’, because it’s about the third situation where I’ve been given a class or private students after ‘clashes’. It’s interesting that there are now 10 teachers who’ve started in the school after me. They’re all from the US, so the balance has shifted quite a bit. When I started there were 3 from the UK and 4 from Canada and myself as the non-US teachers. Now there is 1 from UK, 1 from Ireland, and 3 from Canada.

Barbecue
------------
Last Saturday, one of my friends from work, Anna from Maryland, had a barbecue in her house in Concepción de San Raphael, which is up the mountains. It was a good night, although again I realised how cool it is up the mountains in the evening. They have rented a beautiful house. It’s a big wooden cabin-style building, with a big porch, and a view over the Central Valley, which looks beautiful at night. But it’s a bit remote, and takes about an hour by bus to get back down to the school. So I think I’ll stay where I am!

I’m looking forward to this week, although I’m now moving onto Saturday rotation, so I’ll be working on Saturday’s for the next five weeks. There’s a bank holiday on Thursday (it’s Independence Day).

Tuesday, September 06, 2005

Still PC-less

Back again in CR. The trip home was all too short, but it was greatcatching up with everyone. I just wish I had more time.

Mrs. O'Connor
---------------
Well, the wedding went brilliantly. I arrived down to Cashel Bay in the damp and drizzle that you expect for Connemara. Later, it got worse and the rain was beating against the windows. Incredibly, there was a total transformation on the Monday. It was a scorcher. And nowhere in the world can beat the west of Ireland when you have the weather. The weather was beautiful and Sharon was stunning. She's now Mrs. O'Connor (I keep thinking of that butter ad with the GrimReaper).

Lone voyager
--------------
As most of you who met up with us over the week know, Jack has decided to stay on in Ireland for a while. He never really settled in over here. He feels CR is a good holiday destination, but not a place he'd like to live. So the plan is for him to stay on in Ireland for the moment, get a job, and head back here in the new year for another stint.

Thursday night
----------------
I can't tell you how delighted I was to meet up with so many of you in the Forum on Thursday night. It was brilliant. The only downside was that it meant I had so little time to catch up with people individually. Rest assured that I will never travel home for only a week in the future, so I will have more time to catch up. However, it was brilliant to meet everyone and catch up, however briefly. Thanks for coming in, one and all. One thing that was mentioned again and again was how the weekly email is part of so many people's Monday mornings. Cue immediate guilt for the amount of times I've missed the deadline through busy weekends. So I promise to make more of an effort in the future. Apologies that I'm saying this on a 'Wednesday' delivery week (see ongoing computer problems below).

Ireland
--------
I guess you have to be away from Ireland for a while to really appreciate it. It was great to see Dublin, Galway and Clare (and everywhere in between) on the visit. The weather was great, and sure you can't beat Ireland with the weather. Although it seemed cold at first, I think this was just that Friday WAS cold. There were no problems the rest of the week. Also, I miss the long summer evenings so much. I know you all feel the evenings closing in at this time of the year, but you have many hours on us. 6pm and it's dark. All year round. The other thing I really noticed was the obvious wealth. The expensive cars, the amount of people in shops and restaurants. The amount of road building going on. The shocking prices! It's quite a contrast to here!

Hope recedes
--------------
The story with the PC is a little like being a sailor on a Russian submarine. Time is running out and hope is fading fast. Thanks to those of you who have come back with suggestions. However, it seems to be a big problem. I've tried all manner of CHKDSK and FIXBOOT instructions to no avail. I've tried accessing it from a Linux live-CD. I've been travelling around Heredia and San Jose trying to get people to help. I'm meeting a guy in San Jose tomorrow who has particular expertise in laptops, so I'm hoping. But without optimism at this stage. I know that I can reformat the disk, and reinstall everything, but at the cost of losing everything too. I hope this is a lesson to you all. Learn from my misfortune and avoid having it yourself. The amount of times I made a mental note to investigate the options to backup the laptop now that there are gigabytes of data on it, especially since all Jack's music went on. But I just never got around to it. I felt that the only real threats were from viruses. I now have an external hard drive for backup. I've learnt my lesson, so if I could just get the data back as a slight forgiveness it would be fantastic.

So it's all go, go, go here, rescuing PCs and slaving away in the school. I'm legal again (but just for a month!).

Saturday, August 27, 2005

Dublin

Back in the oul sod. Jet lagged. First impressions are that it's cold, but that the stretch in the evening makes up for it!

You are my substitute
-----------------------
I was quite busy before leaving, because I had to do lesson plans for the two weeks, and also meet and discuss classes with my substitutes. Most of my classes are being taken by Joaquín. Two of the other lads are on visa runs this weekend, so it was substitution all around. My classes on English Horizons have been cancelled while I'm away.

Journey
---------
The journey was fine. There was a 5 hour flight to Newark, NJ. We had to divert slightly to avoid Katrina over Florida, so that added a little time. We thought that we'd run out of things to do in Newark during our 4 hour plus stopover, but in reality that just gave us time to go through immigration, customs and security, and then have a quick bite to eat before heading down to the gate.

PC Blues
---------
We might have made the journey home fine, but I'm afraid my PC didn't.We watched a pirate DVD of 'Batman Begins' on the flight, and I'm nots ure if that messed it up, but since we've arrived the PC won't work at all. I just get a blue screen with the message 'UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME'. I've been on to Dell, and they say I might have to reinstall Windows. Which I think means I'll lose everything on the PC. My writing, my class tests, all our photographs, all Jack's music. I can't do anything until I get back, because the Windows discs are there. But I'm hoping against hope that I'll be able to salvage it.

First impressions
------------------
First impressions of home ... It's very cold!! When we got off the plane it felt like we'd walked into strong air conditioning. There was just a blast of cold air. We came into town yesterday for a walk around. I had to wear T-shirt, shirt and jacket. I remember the summers being warmer! Also, there are the changes nobody told me about. Judge Roy Beans is now The Porterhouse Central, Thing Mote is O'Donoghues. It's all a bit disconcerting.

Jetlag
------
In an attempt to avoid jetlag, we've tried to adapt to Irish time as early as possible. We tried to sleep as much as we could on the plane,and then stayed up as late as we could last night to get onto Irish time. However, I think we blew it by not setting the alarm and sleeping until 4.15pm today (a nice 11.15am back in Costa Rica).

So that's it. We're back. Tired and PC-less. Heading to Connemara in the morning. We're back in Dublin Wednesday, and hope to meet as many of you can make it on Thursday, 1st. From 8pm or so in the Forum.

See yis,

Éamon & Jack

Sunday, August 21, 2005

Ireland bound

Folks,

I can hardly believe that we’re heading home for Sharon’s wedding this Thursday. I’m working until 9 Wednesday, and there is a substitute teacher taking over my classes. We head off early the following morning.

English Horizons
-----------------------
Things continue to go swimmingly with the Internet teaching on new horizons. I find the classes so easy. The slides are already prepared, so it’s just like a chat more than anything. This week, one of the discussions was on the environment. I had a full class of 8 students, and it was amazing to learn about the different approaches to recycling around the world. I had students from Sao Paulo Brazil, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Cairo Egypt, Spain, Italy, France and Japan. One thing I learned was that in the places that really need recycling (like Cairo and Sao Paulo), nothing exists.

Intercultura
---------------
I feel so established at Intercultura this term. Although I did question whether I’m as good a teacher as I thought I was when I got the following answers in a written test from my students. They had to finish these sentences with the English phrases toothache, sore throat, backache and sore eyes.

* My eyes feel good. I don’t have sore ice.
* My teeth feel fine. I don’t have a teethache.
* My throat feels bad. I have a store throat.
* My teeth feel fine. I don’t have gum ache.
* My throat feels bad. I have muscle ache.
* My eyes feel good. I don’t have sore drops.
* My teeth feel fine. I don’t have a teethsick.
* My eyes feel good. I don’t have sour eyes.
* My teeth feel fine. I don’t have a doctor.

Or the complaint letter,

Dear Mrs Rodriguez,

Four months ago I rent your apartament, It needs to be fixed a few things.

First, the sink of the bathroom has a big leak and the mirror is cracked. Second, the doors of the cupboard needs changing because are so bad, the windows needs a new pane of glass because it is cracked. The wall needs to be changed a pane of ceramic because is louse.

I need to be fixed this problems right now, if you don’t change this problems, I’m going to go to look for an another apartament.

Thanks, Mrs Rodriguez.

The journey home
-------------------------
We have an early start in the airport on Thursday, and arrive in Dublin on Friday morning. We’re down to Connemara on Sunday and the wedding is Monday.

We’re probably back in Dublin on Wednesday. The plan for Thursday, 1 September, is to meet in the Forum on Dame St / Lord Edward St. from about 8pm. We’re going to go Isolde’s Tower afterwards if you are coming along after closing. We’re really looking forward to seeing you all!

Monday, August 15, 2005

Dia de la Madre

It’s mother’s day in Costa Rica, and so revered are the mother’s of the nation that it’s a bank holiday and we have a long weekend.

Back to class
------------------
Monday was the first day of the new semester, so it was back to class, and back to reality big time. I’ve got a full schedule this semester, with 4 group classes twice a week and a number of private students to complete the schedule.

Our first visitor
--------------------
My friend Mike, who’s from Kerry but lives in Los Angeles has arrived down to Costa Rica for a holiday. He stayed with us on Thursday and Friday. On Thursday we went to a couple of the local bars. We ended up in Miraflores, the late night Karaoke bar. On Friday we went, along with Joaquín, a colleague from Intercultura, into a few of the clubs in San José. Another very late night. Mike had an early start on Saturday and is now in Manuel Antonio.

English Horizons
----------------------
I had my second class with English Horizons on the internet on Thursday. It really is the easiest class to teach. It was a conversation class on the subject of music. So I was basically entertained for the 45 minutes, as the students talked about the music of their various countries. I had 4 students, mostly the same ones that I had on Monday. I felt like I didn’t have to do anything during the class, yet I got an email from the school director afterwards to say that a student had given him a glowing report on me, and that I’d made a very good start with the school!

This afternoon, another teacher at Intercultura, Laura, popped around to the apartment to observe some classes, so she’ll probably be teaching on the net soon too, and may sub for my classes when I’m back in Ireland at the end of the month.

A wee bit chilly
--------------------
I reckon it’s at about mid-winter here now. There is a chill in the air at night, and we’re not using the fan as much. This weekend it’s rained A LOT. Today it was almost non-stop. So I’m really looking forward to the lovely summer weather of Ireland in a couple of weeks. Actually, one thing that we really are looking forward to is the long stretch in the evenings. We’ve missed them more than anything since we’ve been here. It’s dark every day at 6pm!

Looking forward to seeing as many of you as can make it on the 1st September. We’re thinking of the Forum on Dame St (part of the Parliament Hotel) because it’s never too crowded. Is it still there and open? It’s centrally located and we have Isolde’s around the corner for late drinks.

Monday, August 08, 2005

Puntarenas

It’s back to work here in CR, but not before a weekend of partying at an all expenses paid trip to the Fiesta Resort and Spa in Puntarenas!

Fiesta Resort
------------------
The school I work in organises a trip away for all the teachers and staff, and partners, before the start of each semester. This time it was to the Fiesta Resort in Puntarenas. It’s one of those all-inclusive holiday resorts where you get a wristband on arrival, and after that everything is completely free. All your food, all your drink. Everything. We had an absolute ball. We arrived on Saturday at 3pm. We checked into our bedroom. Or rather, it was a suite. Two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen area with fridge and microwave, and a living area with two leather couches and a TV (we were sharing with other teachers, so it wasn’t completely to ourselves).

It was then off to one of the bars for cocktails. We decided that we’d have a drink at every bar. One near reception, a wet bar in the pool, one on the patio and a further one out on the pier.

We had a choice of restaurants and opted for a meal in the Italian restaurant, where the wine never stopped flowing. After the meal it was back to meet the others in the bar, with a Costa Rica stroke Caribbean style stage show, before heading into the night club for a quick boogie.

On Sunday, it was up again, missing breakfast, so it was back to the bar, I’m afraid, and a little walk around the resort to get the air back into our lungs. We had to hand the armbands back and head off to our bus at 3 on Sunday. But definitely the best work do I’ve ever been on

Back to work
------------------
I had been back to work on Thursday and Friday for training. We met the new teachers. There are six of them, so I’m now quite an experienced member of the staff. Today we were back in earnest. I had two classes and a private student, but I have to say I enjoyed meeting them all again.

English Horizons
----------------------
I also had my first class with English Horizons today at 2pm. This is the Internet teaching company. So I had a class with an Iraqi living in the UK, a girl from Brazil, a girl from Japan, and a guy from Saudi Arabia. It was a bit hairy at first, with a few technical glitches, but it all worked out in the end. It was an unbelievably easy class to teach. I’m on again on Thursday, and if it gets up and running beyond this pilot phase, and begins to pay, I’ll be in my element. You can see me and my biog in the teachers section on www.englishhorizons.com.

Back to Ireland
--------------------
It’s getting very close to our journey home – we leave on Thursday fortnight. The wedding is on the Monday, and I’m only going to be over for just over a week, so we’re planning to have some drinks on Thursday 1 September, venue to be announced. So I’d be delighted to meet up with anyone and everyone who’d like to meet us and catch up that night. Just keep the date free, and I’ll advise the details later.

Signing off now, it’s noticeably chillier these days, and I’m in a long-sleeved shirt for the first time since I got here. Brrrr.

Tuesday, August 02, 2005

Volcán Arenal

This was the final week of holidays before I return to school this week. We went to the active volcano in the north of the Central Valley.

The journey
----------------
The town nearest the volcano is called La Fortuna, a 4½ hour bus journey north of San José in the central valley. This was our most mountainous journey, and quite a beautiful drive, some of it in cloud.

La Fortuna
---------------
La Fortuna de San Carlos is one of the nicer towns in Costa Rica that we’ve visited. It’s quite touristy, but there’s lots to do, and a good mix of restaurants and bars. When we arrived we asked where the volcano was, and were pointed to the bottom of a mountain that disappeared into the clouds.

The Hot Springs
----------------------
Most of the tours that visit the volcano national park also include a visit to the hot springs. We decided to do a day in each, so we went to the springs by the free shuttle bus from the town. It was a great decision. Tabacón Hot Springs is the site of an eruption that killed one person in 1975, but is now the source of large springs of 40°C water. There are large pools, flowing rivers, streams and waterfalls, all like a hot bath. There’s even a bar in the pool serving beer and cocktails that you can swim up to. And the volcano is overhead, although on that day we didn’t see it because the cloud never lifted. It was definitely one of the highlights of our time in Costa Rica so far. We went at 2pm and stayed until it closed at 10.

Volcán Arenal
-------------------
The following day we went on an afternoon trip to the volcano national park. It was again very cloudy, and rain was expected. They even offered to allow us rebook the trip for the following morning if we didn’t want to do it in the poor weather.

The volcano was dormant since the early 1500s until July 29, 1968 when it exploded violently, shooting rocks at over 100kph creating craters as they vaporised in nearby fields. Eighty-nine people were killed, and over 45,000 cattle. It’s been active ever since, with a major pyroclastic flow (a kind of volcano avalanche) in 1992. When we got there the clouds still hadn’t lifted and as we went on the tour the heavens opened. When we got to the highest point, although still in pouring rain, the clouds cleared, and we could see the entire mountain. The temperature inside is 1,000°C, which is cool for a volcano. So the lava comes out as hot rocks, rather than molten lava. You can see rocks tumbling down the mountain every so often, creating puffs of smoke as they bounce down. But as the light faded just before we went, you started to see that they were bright orange from the heat, and broke like fireworks as they tumbled down and split as they hit rocks lower down. It was breathtakingly spectacular. The guides were amazed that we got such good visibility in such appalling weather.

So that’s the end of July, our travelling month. It’s been wonderful to finally get to see so much more of this beautiful country. This week I have training back in the school, and we have a trip away next weekend with the staff before starting the new semester next Monday.

Sunday, July 24, 2005

Tortuguero

This week we travelled to Tortuguero on the north east Caribbean coast – heading towards the Nicaraguan border

The journey
----------------
This was definitely not our best prepared trip. I’d spoken to a teacher in the school who’d done the trip and although he said it was a bit awkward it sounded straightforward enough. The problem is that Tortuguero is only accessible by air or water. There are no roads. He said you take a bus from San José to Cariari, and then a boat to Tortuguero. However, we left later than planned, and on the bus to Cariari I read the ‘Lonely Planet’ and realised that we’d need a bus from Cariari for another hour before we got to a boat. So we were too late to complete the trip in one day. We had to make an unscheduled stop overnight in Cariari, which has absolutely nothing to recommend itself.

Early start
--------------
We were up at 4am the next day to get the 5am bus to Pavona. The bus picked up people along the way and was quite full when we reached a Del Monte banana plantation where they all got off. We continued and the bus stopped in the middle of what was basically a farm. When I asked where the boat was I was told it would leave at 8.30 from the bottom of the cattle track we were on. We took a look, but could only see a stream. But at 8.30, sure enough there was a boat taxi, which could take about 16 people. We sailed down the canal and into a bigger river, then a bigger river again. The journey was about an hour long through spectacular jungle scenery. It reminded me of the Amazon.

Tortuguero
---------------
The village of Tortuguero is very small, and just has walking tracks everywhere. Because there are no cars there are no roads. It’s just between the sea and a river and lagoon. The sea has an enormous beach with very strong surf and currents, but the real beauty is along the river. The Rio Tortuguero and lagoon is very wide at this point, and there are about 4 or 5 bodies of water off it in view of the town.

El Parque Nacional
--------------------------
We got our tickets to the National Park, and went on the 2km walking trail. After all the animals we’d seen in Manuel Antonio, it was a bit disappointing. However, when we were on the beach I could see marks like they had been made by vehicles with caterpillar tracks. Then I noticed big pits in the sand at the top of the beach, and realised that they were turtle tracks. We had yet to see fully what the Tortuguero National Park had in store.

Green sea turtles
-----------------------
That night there was a tour to see the green sea turtles come onto the beach to lay their eggs. I think it’s one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen in my life. The beach was beautiful for a start because it was the night of the full moon. Throughout the night, the turtles would emerge from the surf and pull themselves slowly and clumsily up the beach. They dig a big pit (the only part of the process I didn’t see) and then lay over 100 eggs in the sand. You can get right up to them, but everything is strictly controlled. You must be with a guide, each guide can only have 10 visitors, and only 10 guides are allowed. With infrared torches, so as not to disturb the turtles, you can see the supple eggs being laid in the deepest part of the pit, looking just like ping pong balls. The turtle then covers them in sand (showering us in sand in the process). She then hauls herself back into the sea. The whole process takes each turtle 2½ hours. Since the conservation began the number of green sea turtles has grown from about 3,000 to over 20,000. When the eggs hatch 60 days later the little turtles will dig themselves out and scurry to the sea. But with predators on both land and sea only about 1% to 3% will survive. They will be adult in 30-40 years, and return, always to the same beach, to lay their eggs. They will live to be over 100.

Canoeing trip
------------------
The next morning allowed a relative lie-in until 5.15. There was canoeing trip for three hours through the park from 6-9am. Everything in Costa Rica looks better in the morning. The sky is blue and the light is beautiful. The views from the canoe as we passed through the lagoons, rivers and canals were amazing. We saw spider, howler and capuchin monkeys, toucans, sloths, morpho butterflies, blue and tiger herons, caimans, otters and huge spiders. I read that Costa Rica has only 0.03% of the planet’s surface, but has 6% of the world’s biodiversity. All of this was evident in Tortuguero that morning.

Photos and blogs
------------------------
I’ve now put some of our photos online. The site is very raw, but will improve over the next few weeks. It’s www.angelfire.com/journal2/eamon. In addition, I’ve put these weekly emails into a weblog, irishduo.blogspot.com, so you can check up back issues!

A longer mail again this week. Hope I haven’t lost any of you. Until next week!

Tuesday, July 19, 2005

Puerto Viejo

Our first excursion to the very laid back Caribbean coast. Puerto Viejo is close to the Panamanian border.

Getting there
------------------
The bus journey from San José goes along a national park as it negotiates the Central Valley and then into banana plantations as it descends to the coast. The scenery is luscious and green, and the banana plantations were huge and ranged in every direction. After reaching Puerto Limón we turned and continued the journey along the Caribbean coast until we got to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca itself.

Building the railroad
---------------------------
When they decided in the 1860s to build a railroad to the Caribbean, the government subcontracted the project to an American entrepreneur. Most of the workers died from malaria (in some years, almost 90%). Locals stopped applying for jobs, and after employing convicts from the US and Chinese immigrants they started hiring recently freed and unemployed slaves from Jamaica. The main population on the Caribbean coast are still descendants of these former slaves, and they speak English and a Jamaican patois, as well as Spanish.

Surfers’ paradise
-----------------------
Puerto Viejo is a really nice, laid-back village, with the lethargy supported by a lot of marijuana, the smell of which is everywhere. It’s hugely popular with surfers, mainly because of the ‘Salsa Brava’, a large wave that is out in the bay just before the reef. Puerto Viejo is like a little piece of Jamaica, with Jamaican flags and pictures of Bob Marley everywhere, and reggae constantly playing. There is a beach all along one side of the village. This time, we could sit on the beach and watch the lightning in the distance from hurricane Emily.

Cocles beach
-------------------
The beach in Puerto Viejo itself is quite crowded, and there is a reef, so has fewer places where you can swim. We walked along the coast to the nearby Cocles beach, which is quite beautiful. It has great big waves, but you have to be very careful to observe the life guard flags because there are very strong rip currents.

Farewell to Fionn
-----------------------
Fionn left today, Monday. We headed into San José for his booze-up on Saturday. He’s been a great help to us since we arrived, and has become a good friend, and we’re going to miss him.

Harry Potter
-----------------
Harry Potter mania reaches as far as San José. The Librería Internacional has had a countdown clock to its release on Saturday. We went in to buy a copy on our way back from Puerto Viejo, and everyone in the queue was buying a copy, even though it’s currently only released in English.

We’re heading off on Wednesday to the little village of Tortuguero. Again it’s on the Caribbean coast, but it’s not accessible by road, and the last part of our trip will be by boat along canals.

Hasta luego

Tuesday, July 12, 2005

Sámara

The first week of our holidays is gone. We travelled to Sámara, in the province of Guanacaste.

Bus full
----------
We headed off on Monday, cutting it a bit fine in getting to the bus station. By the time we got there the Sámara bus was full. So we had to get a later bus to Nicoya, and then a local bus from there. As you travel down from the central valley you notice the temperature rising considerably.

Sámara
-----------
Sámara is a small town with a very big beach. It’s on the Pacific coast in the beautiful province of Guanacaste. We had directions from Shane to a hotel he’d stayed in before. It’s right on the beach. We were even able to pop back several times for a beer from the fridge.

Intercultura Sámara
---------------------------
The school I work in has another campus in Sámara. We popped down to it because we were trying to make contact with Tom and Elena. The school is beautiful. It has a long garden that goes right down to the beach. It’s totally air conditioned, and also holds a lot of classes in the garden. We met my boss Barbara while we were down there. She said it’s a great place to work, but there’s nothing left to do after about two weeks.

Sun and palm trees
--------------------------
The beach itself is really beautiful. It’s like a picture postcard, with the palm trees running all around, and a 3km long beach and big waves full of surfers. And it was hot. Despite plastering ourselves with factor 25 we both now have tomato heads. But our favourite thing was popping down to the beach at night before we went out. We’d take a few cans onto the sun loungers and watch the distant lightning. I think it may have been storms on the perimeter of hurricane Dennis.

Ridin’ along in my pushbike
-------------------------------------
On Friday we hired bikes and went on a 14km round trip to the next beach along, Playa Carillo. This was even more beautiful, and with less people. All week we swam in the warmest sea water I’ve ever been in. I’m normally such a coward about taking the plunge. The only drawback was that Jack emerged after one dip with a jellyfish sting on his foot. There must have been 100 people in the sea, and he was the only one chosen by the discerning fish.

We’d actually visited Carillo the evening before, but were waiting ages for the bus and ended up hitching there and back. On each occasion the first vehicle to pass stopped for us. An ancient VW minivan on the way out, and a Cherokee Jeep on the way back.

Caribbean here we come
----------------------------------
We’re back in Heredia now, but heading off to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca in the morning. Not wishing to leave the tickets to fate tomorrow, I headed off today (in the pouring rain!) to the Gran Terminal del Caribe bus terminal. The Grand Caribbean Terminal. Don’t you think Busarus should be called Gateway to the Atlantic or something? We head off on the lunchtime bus, and should be there around 5.30.

It’s an awful tough life out here, dragging ourselves from coast to coast in the hot sun. But we struggle on …

Monday, July 04, 2005

Did the Earth move for you too?

One of the things about living in an earthquake zone is that you expect to feel the odd rumble. Unlike Jack, I’ve been looking forward to experiencing it, so you can imagine my disappointment that I missed the first one because I dozed off on the couch!

Earthquake!!
--------------
We were out with the teachers on Thursday night for end of term (see below), and on Friday we were going out for a meal to celebrate my birthday. I was so tired that I dozed off on the couch before going for the meal. The following day I read that there had been an earthquake in Nicaragua and northern Costa Rica measuring 6.7 on the Richter scale. When I said this to Jack, he asked if it was at the time that I was asleep on the couch. It was. It turns out that the earthquake was quite far away, and out in the Pacific, so Jack just felt a rumble through the building, and had been unsure if it was a truck passing. So there you are. My first earthquake and I missed it.

School’s out
------------
Well, we got our holidays from school on Thursday. We went out for drinks with the teachers after. We started off in Cantina Mulo, which is the bar opposite the school. It’s regarded as ‘a typical Tico cantina’. Which basically means it’s a dive with a toilet that you avoid for as long as you possibly can. Anyway, after that it was off for karaoke to Nuevo Heidelburg, and finishing the night up, as ever in Miraflores, the nearest late night club. It was a great laugh.

English Horizons
-----------------
One of the teachers in the school was contacted by a new website called English Horizons. It’s in a pilot project at the moment, but the idea is that you teach English classes over the internet. Apparently they’re expecting a big market in Japan. There are only a few teachers so far, and he’s looking to Costa Rica (because we’re so badly paid!) for some more. So I think I’m going to be starting with them in August, for a few hours a week in addition to the school work. The rate of pay is over three times our hourly rate!

Birthday celebrations
----------------------
We ended up celebrating my birthday a few times, so it’s been quite a busy week. On Friday night, the two of us went to a pizza restaurant up in the mountains, which had been recommended by a student. We were really impressed. The pizza was so gorgeous, that after we finished we turned around and ordered another! It was our first time in the mountains, and we realised that it’s quite a bit colder up there. We had worn t-shirts (the only thing we’ve ever needed to wear since we arrived), and were distinctly chilly.

Getting ready for travel
------------------------
We’ve worked out a rough plan for our travels this month. We’re starting tomorrow, getting the bus to Sámara, which is a beach town on the north-western Pacific coast. We’ll be there for a week, and probably coming back here for a night or two, before heading to the Caribbean coast, and hopefully then to explore the Central Valley (where we live!).

Tom and Elena
---------------
One of the guys I work with is called Tom Todd, and he’s Canadian. He’s here with his Czech wife. He met her when he taught in Prague. They’re a really nice couple and we’ve met them a few times. They’re kind of stuck at the moment, because their application for a visa for Elena has run into problems. While they’re waiting, they also decided to head up to Sámara, so we’ll meet up with them when we’re there. They will have to move out of their accommodation before the visas are due to come through. We offered that they could stay here (we’ll probably be travelling) for the few days. They said they’d call around to discuss it. We were quite surprised when they arrived at 11.30 on Saturday with beers! So Saturday turned out to be another boozy day.

Six months
-----------
I’ve been mentioning in a couple of emails to people recently that I often look back on the first six months of the year, around my birthday, and wonder where the time had flown. I never seem to have achieved anything. However, this year I’m looking back and I can’t believe how much we’ve achieved. December seems such a long time ago.

Anyway, that’s it for another week. We’ll keep you posted on our travels.

Hasta luego

Tuesday, June 28, 2005

The infamous Hotel Del Rey

Folks,

I didn’t get around to writing over the weekend, and yesterday was my birthday, so we ended up going out for a few drinks.

Hotel Del Rey
--------------
We headed in to San José again on Monday night. A bar called ‘El Cuartel’ in an area called California(!) is THE Monday night place. Afterwards we decided to see if we could get anywhere for a late night drink. We ended up in a hotel called Hotel Del Rey. This is an infamous hotel known mostly for prostitution. So there was myself, Jack, Fionn and José sitting at the bar, and the rest of the area was swarming with ladies of the night. They don’t approach customers, and we avoided eye contact so we had a great night. Myself and Jack didn’t leave until nearly 7. When we got home everyone was going to work.

Arts Festival
-------------
The Arts Festival here is the National Arts Festival, which Heredia is hosting for the first time. So all week there has been music, theatre, dance and art exhibitions centred around Parque Central just up the road. It’s been featured in the papers, and we’ve wandered up to sample it a couple of times.

Heredia
--------
Just to let you know a little bit about the city we’re living in. Heredia is the capital of Heredia Province. It is located at 10°N 84°W, at an elevation of 1,140 metres (that’s 3,730 ft) above sea level. In 2004 it had a population of some 42,600 people. The city was founded in the 1570s as Cubujuquí. It later changed its name to Villavieja before adopting its current name in 1763. For a brief period in the 1830s, Heredia served as the national capital. Heredia also is home to one of Costa Rica’s largest colleges, the Universidad Nacional, so it’s a university town. So now you know.

El Pueblo
----------
We finally made it actually into El Pueblo on Friday night, with Fionn and his Irish friends who have been here on holidays. It’s basically a compound of bars that are not very impressive. But Fionn brought us through a maze of little alleys to find a couple of local bars with live music. We really enjoyed this, and it will definitely be on the tour for any of you who decide to visit!

My birthday
-------------
As I said, yesterday was my birthday. Thanks to those who have sent emails. If you haven’t there’s plenty of time, as we’re not celebrating it until the weekend, because I’ll be finished working! Yesterday, one of my classes (who remembered it was my birthday from an exercise a few weeks ago on how to say dates in English) surprised me with a party to celebrate, with pizza’s and coke! I was very impressed.

Although we will go out to celebrate at the weekend, myself and Jack went to our local ‘El Cholo’ last night and had a couple of pitchers of beer to mark the occasion!

It’s now Tuesday, and I’m finished work on Thursday, and then we’ll sort out the itinerary for our travels starting next week.

Hasta luego.

Monday, June 20, 2005

Time accelerates

For a period after we arrived, it seemed like time moved so slowly. The first couple of months felt like about six months. However, things seem to have speeded up now. I can’t believe it’s the middle of June already. I have only two more weeks’ work before holidays in July.

Tiring week
------------
While it’s great that I can get free Spanish lessons with the school, it’s also very tiring. This week I had Spanish from 8.30 to 12.30 from Monday to Friday. I was then preparing classes for the afternoon, and teaching from 4pm to 9pm. So it feels like I’m in the school from 8.30am to 9pm, and it’s exhausting! So this week I’m not going to do classes, and I’m going to use the time to revise what I’ve done in the last few weeks.

Spanish classes
----------------
The school where I work, Intercultura, teaches both English and Spanish. Spanish is in the morning, and English in the afternoon and evening. The English students are Ticos, who pay moderate fees. The Spanish students are mostly American, and they pay a fortune. They usually come down for a month or so. They spend one or two weeks in the school, then a week in the other Intercultura school by the sea, in Sámara on the Pacific coast. They will probably have a week travelling too. So each week, my fellow students are bubbling with enthusiasm and raving about the travelling or activities they’ve done or are about to do.

July plans
-----------
We’re looking forward to making plans to travel during July. The school finishes on June 30, and isn’t back again until August. We had originally planned to buy a car. We’ve been advised against this though. The roads are so poor that you really need four wheel drive. At this time of the year some roads are impassable because there is so much rain. In addition, insurance is extremely high. There is only one insurance company and it’s government run. So for July we’re going to travel by bus. They’re slow, but cheap and run to just about anywhere in the country.

Art festival
------------
When we arrived home from San José last night we found that the Avenida Central was closed to traffic. The whole central square has been turned into a venue for the National Festival of Art. It runs for the week and there are performances of music, dance, theatre and cinema during the week. We wandered up there earlier today and it’s all very festive.

And so we head into another week. I’m taking a break from Spanish, but will have about 25 hours teaching plus prep.

Hasta luego

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

Hangover days

Apologies that the update is late this week. The weekend was a bit hectic and yesterday was a totally hung-over day.

Plane crashes
--------------
We’re beginning to question our judgement in having flown to Manuel Antonio in the light airplane. There were two crashes last week. One got a lot of attention because it contained a group of American and Canadian skydivers. One American guy survived by parachuting out of the plane. He was in the Pacific for 24 hours before being rescued. Several Tico students have told me that they’ll never take a light aircraft, because there have been so many crashes.

Pub crawl San José
--------------------
We got a call from Fionn who was organising a pub crawl in San José on Saturday night. He used to work in Korea, and two colleagues were separately and co-incidentally arriving in Costa Rica on the same day, so it was a really large Irish group heading out. Fionn is from Monaghan, so he also wanted to see Kevin McBride fight Mike Tyson. We were going to Barrio San Pedro, which is the university district, beside the Universidad de Costa Rica, which has tons of really hopping bars. Myself and Jack had trouble getting into some of the bars because we didn’t have ID!

A good night for Monaghan
---------------------------
Well, our night got off to good start when McBride astounded everyone and won the fight. Fionn was in his element. He works in a sports book, and was saying that the odds were so poor for Tyson that all the money was on McBride, so they’d have lost a lot of money. He seemed quite happy about that though.

El Pueblo
----------
Since we arrived we’ve been hearing people talk about El Pueblo. As I understood, it was an area of the city which has loads bars and restaurants. So after we finished all available bars in San Pedro, we headed out there. I was surprised to see that it’s all like an industrial estate. All the bars and restaurants were behind bars in a gated compound. To top that, we couldn’t even get in the gates. There was a security guard shot dead earlier in the week, so they were being careful about people arriving late! As luck would have it though, there was a bar across the road and we partied the night away there. I don’t know what time we got home, but it was completely bright.

Hot running water
-------------------
We discovered this week that not only are we unusual in having a phone (that can receive international calls), Internet broadband and cable TV. But we also have hot water! We weren’t aware that this was a luxury. Turns out that 90% of apartments don’t have hot water, just a heater for the shower alone. We’ve really landed on our feet.

OK, that’s it for this week. Sorry about the delay again.

Hasta la proxima semana.

Sunday, June 05, 2005

Turning work down

Another week over. The teaching is going fine, and I’ve had to turn down extra work. The rainy season continues with gusto, and we visited a local gay bar and a club in San José.

Rain, rain, rain
--------------------
Lest some of you think that we’re in beautiful tropical weather, I have to tell you that today it’s done nothing but rain. I’m sitting on the balcony, it’s just after 7pm, and I can just see sheets of rain in front of the streetlight opposite. The sky is just grey cloud. It’s been raining since I got up, and it shows no sign of stopping. It’s still warm though. I popped out earlier with just an umbrella and a t-shirt and I was fine.

Our local bar
-------------
Shane popped over the other night. He's our first visitor to the apartment. He told us about a nice bar down the road, el Cholo. It’s just about 100m from the apartment. It’s Heredia’s only gay bar. We popped down for a drink the other night. It’s small, but quite nice. It’s a Spanish themed bar, and does Tapas. While we were there a couple of teachers from the school, Porter and Tom Todd, and Tom’s wife Elena, arrived in. So we ended up joining them for a drink, and had a good laugh. They closed the bar at midnight, but continued to serve everyone inside. We left at 2am, because I was teaching at nine. Everyone was dancing at that stage. Tom, Elena and Porter were there until three. I think it’s somewhere we may visit often.

Interamericana
----------------
Shane works at the Universidad Interamericana. To avoid all their staff having to do visa runs to Panamá they decided to apply for work permits for them all. Unfortunately, it backfired. Not only did they not get the permits, but they were informed that there were plenty of Ticos (Costa Ricans) who could teach English. So they’ve had to let everyone go. Shane is one of only four teachers staying. Some of new teachers are quite poor. One told Shane that she hadn’t ‘teached’ yet that day.

La Avispa
----------
Last night, Saturday, we ventured into San José for the first time since moving to Heredia. It’s about 20 minutes by bus, which costs about 42c. We went to the main gay club, called La Avispa (the wasp). It’s a good sized club on two levels. We enjoyed ourselves and had to say we preferred it to the George. We got a taxi back, which cost less than €5.

Useful technology – Part IV
-----------------------------
The DVD drive on my laptop. We’ve joined our local video store, Videomanía. We’ve caught up on a whole load of films that we hadn’t been able to catch in the cinema over the past year.

Turning down work
--------------------
I was in class on Thursday, when Barbara, my boss, popped in to see if I’d take another private student on Fridays. Friday and Sunday are my days off, and the rest of the week is fairly full at this stage, so I had to turn it down. So it’s just taken a little over a month to go from a couple of hours a week to turning work down.

Signing off now as our favourite programme of the week, Desperate Housewives, starts in five minutes. It’s still bucketing out of the heavens.

Hasta la proxima semana