Semana Santa

We had planned to go to Cuba for Holy Week, because I was off. But we were a little late in actually planning it, and prices were quite high, so we decided to save it for later in the year. So we ended up staying at home, and having a very relaxing week.

No alcohol again
---------------------
It was like a repeat of the election, as black plastic sealed all of the alcohol shelves and fridges in the supermarket, and the bars were all sealed shut on both Thursday and Friday.

Good Friday
----------------
I was explaining the names of the days of Holy Week to my students, and they all asked why on earth ‘Good Friday’ was called ‘Good’. Given that it’s commemorating the crucifixion. I had never given this any thought! So I’ve looked it up, and apparently, it’s a corruption of ‘God’s Friday’. In the same way as ‘Goodbye’ is a corruption of ‘God be with you’. Bet you didn’t know that.

They just call it Holy Friday here, and on Friday evening there was a large procession going by the apartment down Avenida Central. It started off with altar boys, followed by little girls dressed as angels, men as shepherds and women dressed as vestal virgins. There was a group of men playing those wooden ratchet instruments. Then a band playing the death march. They were followed by the ornate glass coffin with neon lights that contained the statue of the dead Jesus. Finally we had statues of Our Lady and saintly mourners also borne by the marchers.

Easter Sunday
-----------------
There was another procession, before 11 o’clock mass on Sunday. The music was much more upbeat this time. More like a circus band. The procession had most of the same people as Friday, but with a resurrected Jesus carried shoulder high. Despite the celebratory theme, Mary and the mourning saints’ statues looked as sad as they had on Friday.

The Mass
------------
Having followed the parade, I decided to attend the mass. It was in the large church on Parque Central. I always notice that even in very poor communities, the churches are quite architecturally impressive and elaborate, and this one is no exception. I’ve seen this throughout South America and Costa Rica. And even in the coverage of the tsunami, I saw that in many towns and villages that had been entirely wiped out, the only surviving building was the mosque, which was built to a much higher standard than other buildings.

Anyway, while the procession continued to the side of the church I nipped inside. But they must just have just completed a circuit of the church, because next thing the entire procession came in and walked down the aisle. Altar boys, angels, shepherds, vestal virgins, the circus music-playing band, followed by Jesus, Mary and the mourning saints. There were rounds of applause from the congregation as each group arrived. The largest applause being reserved for Jesus and the band.

Leah and Laura
-------------------
Sadly, over Semana Santa I also said goodbye to my two closest friends at the school. Laura, from Washington State left to live in Tucson, Arizona on Tuesday, and Leah from Maryland left for home on Saturday. We were quite close and hung around together a lot, particularly while Jack wasn’t here and I was on my own. We were very different ages, all ten years apart. Leah is in her early 20s, Laura early 30s, and I’m early 40s. I’ll miss them, but we’ve promised to keep in touch and meet up in the US before we go home.
------
So that’s it for another week. I’m back in work today, even though it’s a relocated bank holiday, because the April 11 Juan Santamaría holiday was in Semana Santa. The school has obviously decided we’ve had enough time off! So until next week.

Pura Vida,

Éamon

Today’s headline in La Nación: Intermediaries exploit lottery reseller