Panajachel, Guatemala

Folks,

It's been a busy week. I left Santa Teresa, returned to Heredia, and flew to Guatemala.

The pic of the week shows 13-year-old Pedro, who was my guide in the town of Santiago Atitlán this morning.

Leaving the casita
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On the last day when I told Ariel (the gardener) I was going, he asked if I was leaving anything behind. I showed him some kitchen stuff and he was delighted. Then I told him that if there was anything out with the rubbish he could have it as well.

He eagerly went through the rubbish, and found t-shirts, jeans, and CDs that he was delighted to take. He went off with two packed sacks.

I laughed when I saw him after lunch, and he was walking up the road in a t-shirt with a message emblazoned across his chest 'Is fearr liom buachaillí'.

Heredia
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It was wonderful being back in Heredia. It felt a little like going home. I was delighted to meet back with people in the school. A few of us went out for a few beers in my regular bar, El Cholo. It was just like old times when Abraham. the barman, saw me arrive and asked, 'Pilsen Red with a glass of ice?'

Arrival in Guatemala
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I had conflicting advice on whether to stay in Guatemala City itself, or Antigua - both are close to the airport. Guatemala City is fighting a bad reputation on security, and Antigua is considered 'prettified' and manufactured for the tourist. I hadn't decided where to go, and read up on both in my guide on the flight. I discovered that Antigua was a UNESCO World Heritage site, and that made up my mind.

It's a very pretty colonial city in the shadow of three volcanoes, full of art galleries and not very typical of Guatemala. But I didn't mind spending my two nights there, and seeing all the kids going to school in the morning made me feel that at least it wasn't totally manufactured.

First impressions
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My first impressions of the country are that people are a lot poorer than Costa Rica, but the roads are better. There are also a huge proportion of indigenous people, most of whom still wear their colourful traditional clothes.

They also know how to pack a bus. On the way up here we were like sardines. But everyone was laughing, smiling, and in good form. It was like they were having a day out, although I imagine it was their daily commute.

Lago de Atitlán
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For my first overland journey I've already abandoned my plan and come west to Lago de Atitlán, on the recommendation of a couple of friends.

I'm staying in Panajachel which is the biggest town on the lake. The lake is a beautiful body of water with several towns nestled under two enormous volcanoes.

The country is in the middle of the run-off in the Presidential election, and political posters and billboards are everywhere. It's apparently very close, between the Centre Left candidate Colom, and the traditionalist Pérez, who many fear is too close to the military. I'll be interested in following how it goes after I leave.
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Well, that's it for this week. I leave early tomorrow to travel north-east to the Mayan ruins at Tikal. After that, I move on to Mexico.

So, for this week,

Chau,

Éamon

Today's headline in Prensa Libre: Rotation of senior police chiefs